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05-Aug-2017 07:27

Given the scores of camera-toting tourists lined up at the artificial lake in front of Angkor Wat waiting for the requisite dawn or dusk money shot, it continues to be a global tourism drawcard.

[caption id="attachment_2168" align="alignnone" width="448"] Angkor Wat in late morning sunlight.[/caption] Other temples such as Angkor Thom and Bayon attract similar sized crowds.

Add rampant local corruption to the tale and sadness becomes the overarching narrative.

Most travellers in Siem Reap spend a few days at the great temples, undoubtedly among Asia’s magnificent sights.

My itinerary is altered and my impressions instantly change.

[caption id="attachment_2167" align="alignnone" width="276"] Tonle Sap floating village.[/caption] To recount a Cambodian chronology is to reflect on years of hardship.The Vietnamese killed most of the wildlife and bombed temples in the 1980s.Then the Thais, the Chinese and the Vietnamese purloined many of the country’s artworks in the 1990s.[caption id="attachment_2169" align="alignnone" width="275"] Ta Prohm temple and strangling fig trees.[/caption] I spend a hot humid afternoon at Beng Mealea and Koh Ker temples.

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My guide, a survivor from Pol Pot’s decimation of the educated elite, mentions that a dark corridor I am tempted to explore at Beng Mealea is rife with ‘scorpions and cobras’ and that it is unwise to proceed.[caption id="attachment_2166" align="alignnone" width="261"] Tonle Sap map: pale blue outline shows lake at extent of annual flood.[/caption] Fish fatten, rice paddies flourish and the people eat well.

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